We again take it slowly today, splitting up to do some tourist browsing of various spots. I take some photos of the fortress (we’d left our camera at home yesterday) including the tanks and artillary of the military museum.
We wander around idly looking at buildings – one of the highlights is the giant Orthodox church St Sava, apparently the biggest in the world. It’s a beautiful building on the outside, but is undergoing repairs inside. You can still step inside and be awed by the size of the cupola, and there are various shrines around the edges of the church – various worshippers file in and out to pray or light candles.
We return to the “bohemian” quarter (as signposted around the city) for dinner. It’s Vana’s birthday so we go somewhere nice, an opera-themed restaurant named Little Bay. We sit in an opera box, curtained off from the rest of the room and with a bell to ring to call the waiter. At one point in dinner a woman starts singing opera. Fortunately the food matches the presentation, and we have a very pleasant meal. Afterwards we wander the area, which has the same feel as Barcelona or Montmarte, loads of cool little neighbourhood-style bars. We end up in what we are told (by the barman, admittedly) is the best blues/jazz bar in Belgrade. It’s pretty good, small and arty – green wallpaper with black and white photos for decoration. There’s a guy playing live, and once he’s finished the crowd starts dancing enthusiastically and dramatically to recorded music. A good vibe.