We take it easy today: a late start, some food at the apartment and then wander up to explore the Belgrade fortress. It’s an impressive place – it takes up a lot of space and has various monuments (of victory, of gratitude to the French), museums (of military history), churches, basketball courts and old guys playing chess. It also has fantastic views of the river and the other side (the tower blocks of New Belgrade). So a worthwhile afternoon.
We lunch at what turns out to be another branch of the self-service pizza place we went to in Budapest. It’s perfectly adequate. We relax at home for a bit then go out to a music bar/cafe/restaurant. It seems to have two locations either side of some steps – our side is completely empty apart from us (which is great – no smoking!). The poor waitress has to bring everything from either downstairs or accross at the other venue. We finish by having a drink at the other venue, hoping for some live music. It doesn’t happen – instead we get the same old soft jazz standards album that plays everywhere in this country – awful versions of songs from ‘Hot Stuff’ to ‘Black Betty’ to ‘Paradise City’ to ‘Guns of Brixton’ to ‘Blister in the Sun’….just terrible unemotional stuff.